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A RIOT original

Kate Hawley:
The First Part
Is the Dreaming

16 March 2026·Documentary·Interviews·Music & Entertainment

Kate Hawley at the library shelves beneath Tiffany lamps
Film
The First Part Is the DreamingA RIOT original
With
Kate HawleyCostume designer, Frankenstein
Runtime
1:50Directed by MUG5
Filmed
February 2025Tiffany & Co., New York
Released
March 2026The morning after the Academy Awards
Dedication
For Kateand the artists who still dream

Before the fittings and the fabric and the hundred decisions a costume is made of, there is a quieter part that nobody sees. Kate Hawley calls it the dreaming.

Kate Hawley designed the costumes for Guillermo del Toro’s Frankenstein, and in March 2026, at the 98th Academy Awards, she won the Oscar for it. The next morning we released a film we had been carrying for a year: not a making-of, not an awards-season accessory, but a two-minute portrait of the artist in her own words. We made it for her, and for everyone who recognizes the part of the work she describes.

Kate Hawley speaking during the interview in The First Part Is the Dreaming

An ode, not a behind the scenes

The conversation at the heart of the film was recorded in February 2025, in the library at Tiffany & Co. in New York, while we were filming the story of the jewelry Tiffany made for Frankenstein. Kate sat with her boards behind her, Elizabeth’s cross and the sketches pinned around a dress form, and talked. Most of what she said was about the film and the jewels, and that was the job. Some of it was Kate Hawley on time, on silence, on instinct, on the fear and the privilege of beginning. We held on to those minutes, and a year later, long after the shoot was delivered, we cut them into a film of their own.

Kate Hawley reading beneath Tiffany lamps between takes, photographed by Jonathan Hokklo
Kate reading in the library, between takes. Photograph by Jonathan Hokklo.
Kate Hawley at a marble table covered in fabric swatches, photographed by Jonathan Hokklo
The marble table, the fabrics and the boards. Photograph by Jonathan Hokklo.
“The first part of the process
is the dreaming.”
Kate Hawley on beginning

A shared language

She begins with where she comes from. A mother who gave her children fairy stories, always the darkest, grimmest ones. A father who sang opera, so the heightened world was always there. When she first met del Toro, she says, it was her books he responded to, and the years in theatre and opera, and he told her they could work together because they had a shared language.

The film lets her say it against the things she was looking at that day. The Medusa itself, Louis Comfort Tiffany’s necklace, out of its case under a leaded-glass lamp. Beside it, the old Louis Comfort Tiffany volume whose plate was, until the necklace resurfaced, the only image of it anyone knew. And the shelves of a library that smells of a century.

Kate finds the Medusa in the Tiffany archive
Kate Hawley surrounded by Tiffany lamps, stained glass and reference books
Kate among the Tiffany lamps and reference books.
Costume board for Elizabeth with a figure drawing of Mia Goth and cross references pinned around it
The board for Elizabeth: a figure study of Mia Goth with the cross references pinned around it.

Time, silence, trust

Then the line that named the film. The first part of the process is the dreaming: to sit with a script, alone, without noise or interruption, and be given the time for certain things to emerge. It is an argument for a kind of patience the industry rarely grants, and she makes it quietly.

From there she reaches for a first edition of Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein, and for Shelley herself, a woman in that period who persevered and had to find a way to voice her own artistic self among enormous male personalities. The portrait widens there, almost without meaning to, into a film about women in art and the persistence it takes to protect your own voice.

Sketches, crosses and a phone full of references
The Shelley edition and the pendant
An old book held open beside a Tiffany leaded-glass lamp
A plate of a jeweled brooch in an open archive volume
A watercolor costume sketch for Elizabeth in green
Cards of cross designs laid out on a table
A gold chain necklace with an amethyst pendant
A spiked necklace in a tray beside a costume sketch of Elizabeth
A hand placing brooches on a dress form
Frankenstein character design boards with purple and yellow costume artwork
Frames from the film: the archive, the drawings and the pieces they became. Scroll sideways.

The rawness and the imperfect

Everyone, she says, can look at the same image on a table or a wall and see something different. She calls herself an instinctive, organic designer, reliant on feeling, and then says the thing the film is really about: that it is the rawness and the imperfect qualities that make her who she is. We cut it over her hands in the fabric, the greens and the crimsons, the moment the material starts to answer back.

“It’s the rawness and the imperfect qualities
that make me, me.”
Kate Hawley on instinct
Hands in the fabric
Detail of a costume concept sketch from The First Part Is the Dreaming
A costume sketch, close.
Kate Hawley smiling during the interview for The First Part Is the Dreaming
Kate, mid-thought.

New York at dusk

The film ends outside. Kate in a scarf, walking through Midtown as the lights come on, looking up. Over it she wonders what you follow Guillermo and Frankenstein with, says she is not sure, and that she feels she is in a position of great privilege. Then a last line, almost to herself: looking back, she has had some really wonderful moments. The picture goes to black and a single sentence holds: For Kate, and the artists who still dream.

Midtown, the lights coming on

The morning after

We approached The First Part Is the Dreaming like a small art film rather than a promo: textured, intimate, cut to her cadence, with nothing to sell. Its date was decided for us. On the night of 15 March 2026 Kate Hawley won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design, and on the morning of the 16th we put the film into the world, so that the first thing people found when they went looking for her was not a podium but the dreaming.

End card reading For Kate, and the artists who still dream
The closing dedication.

Credits

Film
A RIOT original
With
Kate Hawley
Director
Chris Maguire
Producer
Nastassja Simone
Directors of photography
Mark Sherman, Sam Kretchmar
Camera
Richard Shelton, Sam Kretchmar
Assistant camera
Brian Ansel
Gaffer
Casey Wooden
Grip
Travis Tomlinson
Sound
Matt Caulfield
Hair and makeup
Katie Wedlund
Photography
Jonathan Hokklo
Production assistant
Andrew Alberson
Edit, color and motion graphics
Chris Maguire
Edit assistance
Eric Schaeffer
With thanks
Tiffany & Co.

ServicesCreative Direction·Concept Development·Brand Storytelling·Film Production·Editing·Color Grading·Sound Design·BTS Photography

TABLE OF CONTENTS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
  1. An ode, not a behind the scenes
  2. A shared language
  3. Time, silence, trust
  4. The rawness and the imperfect
  5. New York at dusk
  6. The morning after

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